Hey peoples I've got some exciting news, me and my friend @blazing_heavens are going to be putting on an astrophotography workshop this year! It's sponsored by @skywatcherusa so we'll have plenty of sky trackers for people to use. If you're interested in attending shoot me your email in a DM and we'll update you with more info soon! The images posted here are the rosette nebula (reprocessed), m31, and m33. I think these are some of my personal bests. Let me know what you think!
The Winter Milky Way, while not as bright as it's Summer counterpart, is home to incredible detail. I traveled to a dark sky location 1 hour west of Houston to collect a long exposure mosaic of Orion. The stunning red areas are called emission nebulae, from Hydrogen gas being energized by star light. You'll also see the Orion Nebula, my favorite Winter object.
Do you have a favorite Winter night sky object?
N I G H T S C A P E R Photo Award to ...
Congratulations to Chris Burkard. “Getting a good ‘Astro’ photograph in one single frame takes some patience & practice. It may be one of the hardest things to photograph because it’s all happening at night. It’s typically cold, dark & sometimes you’re fumbling with equipment while wearing thick gloves. Unless you know the landscape or shoot location well it can also feel very foreign at night. With practice it all gets easier,” says Chris. || Please show support to our guest artists by visiting their IG gallery.
MORE ADVICE from Chris to improve your astrophotography: 1) Use the best lenses you can. This is one aspect of photography where the equipment makes a huge difference. Try to get a wide angle prime (something between 15-35mm) that has a minimum opening of F2.8 or lower. These lenses are sharper, focus easier at night & let in way more light.
2) Don’t be afraid of a high ISO. People often think that by shooting a lower ISO they are preserving the quality of the image even if the photo comes out dark. Trying to bring a photo back to life in Lightroom or during Post processing always brings out a lot of noise & artifacts that typically wouldn’t be there if you just shot a bit higher ISO and tried to get the correct exposure in camera.
3) Your lens focal length (mm) controls your Star movement. If you are after tack sharp stars with no movement (like the image above) or blurring then you will want to understand this simple concept. The ‘Wider’ the lens the slower [longer] the shutter speed you can have without star blurring. The [longer the focal length of your] lens, the faster the shutter will have to be. A quick rule of thumb follows: 15mm lens up to ~ 25s shutter. 20mm up to ~ 15s shutter. 24mm up to 10-12s shutter. This calls for experimentation but it’s important to realize that even changing your lens MM by just a tiny bit will force you to adjust shutter speed/ISO.
MORE free NightScape advice at Royce’s blog: www.NightScaper.com (scroll to bottom for “Popular Links” and “Free NightScape Tutorial”).